Heater channels, sill plates, etc. What do I need to buy??

[Digger89L]

I haven't torn things apart yet, and am planning to order the parts for my 66 re-build, but am confused about exactly what I will need. Both heater channels are rusted thru at front and back, and the door post areas are rusted out as well. I already have the complete floor pans for each side. So here's a few questions: 1. I notice some places are selling heater channels without the heater tube ...what's that all about? 2. I notice other places sell the heater channel with the heater tube, but also a separate bottom plate that is not already attached (welded?) to the heater channel. Why? 3. Wouldn't it be better to buy a "complete" heater channel with tube and bottom plate already assembled as one complete unit? 4. Does the top side of the heater channel work as the door sill, or is there another piece that has to go there? 5. I notice some places selling rocker panel sills ..where do they go? The blow-up diagrams sellers have posted don't really show things clearly. Can some give me a "bottom up" list, layer by layer, I what I'll need to buy? Thanks.

[darzoom]

Look at this diagram:

http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/diagra ... eet-metal/

Mid America (not say the best but a good diagram)

You would need R and S for the complete heater chanel and door sill. For pillars you would need N (get tall one) and X. You may also need M (inner wheel house) or K (complete wheel house) and DD depending on how bad the pilars are.

Get the heaviest metal (lower number is thicker) you can. Hope that helps.

[darzoom]

BTW here is a location for how to videos if you need them:

http://www.bugmevideo.com/volume7.html

[Digger89L]

Very much appreciate the response! Hadn't come across this site before. I note in the fine print at the top of the page, it says the "complete" heater channels come with rocker panel and carpet attaching strip already welded on. Bonus!! When I get a chance, I'll take some detailed pics of the areas that need repair, and perhaps we can refine this list a bit.

[darzoom]

If it is that bad I think I would also get the Jack points as well:

http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/produc ... te_309516/

That way you would have replaced the whole lower part of the car as needed with new metal rather than try and scab old to new.

[Digger89L]

I already have the jackpoints on the new floor pans. But, I'm pretty sure I'll need more of the body metal under the rear seat area. Also need the rear bumper mount panels, as the old ones are in pretty bad shape ....having been welded back on at one point in this 47 year car's life, and then later broken off.

As you can see from these two pics, the front driver side is pretty bad. The front door post is actually detached at the bottom. The passenger side is much better, but I think I might as well replace both lower door posts.

[darzoom]

You may want to check the firewall under the tank as well. Mine overall was no where as bad as your pictures show but I had issues in the firewall. If you need the new bumper mounts for the front you should really consider getting the inner front apron assembly (if you can find it) as it has the mounts as part of it. I know they are pricy but if you can find it will save a lot of time and the welds hide easily in the fender well. I wish I had done that for mine as after replacing the bumber mount and the front left quarter I still have 6-10 hours body work to get it looking right. The backs don't come in a clip just the real wheel house with bumper mounts and the apron as a seperate piece. Again You should consider replacing it all since you are going to all the trouble and with new metal a lot less body work. The more metal in complete units you can get will save a lot of time. Don't forget to get a spot weld drill as that too saves a lot of time. You may need more than one as you are replacing alot of metal on the car. Another thing you may want to consider is creating an overlap seam if at all possible on the quarter panels with the new metal going behind the old rather than a butt joint. It is much stronger and a ton easier to weld as you can do spots and then seam seal rather than a log weld that warps the whole panel.

[Digger89L]

All good points ....glad you mentioned the panel over-lap issue. I have experience doing this on some older Honda Civics I've worked on (almost as notorius for body rust as old VWs). I use a panel crimper (from Eastwood) to make the "under lap" (about half inch); clamp it in place; drill holes every 2 inches or so; put Eastwood expoxy Panel Bond on the joint; pop-rivet the panels together; then grind the pop rivets off with a flap disk. Works like a damn for replacing body panels on the old civics. The only downside is you need to use a fair amount of bondo to hide the lap joint. Don't see mention of any panel bonding going on in the VW world though .... (I read somewhere that new Aston-Martins are 99% panel bonded ..hardly any welding at all ....)

[darzoom]

I used it on all my replacement panels just not where visible. I also installed a ragtop and used on the glass to metal after bolting (per instructions) every 6 inched with special flush top bolts. It should all bu good.

[darzoom]

As you can see, I replace the drivers front quarter, the door sills, lower 6 " of drivers A post, 6" of drivers rear quarter and part of B post, had to build the front bumper mount as quarter was for a 68 and later, pans, passengers A post lower 6", door sills and added a slider that was not offered for a 66. I alos had to narrow the front beam by 3/4 on both sides for rims to fit and lowered it 2.5 inches and have disks for the front. I hope to be done by spring. It has been sitting for a while now and I need to get back to it. Work has me travelling too much. Such is life.