2 speed wiper washer switch operation/repair?

[dcarlson12]

Have to get my washer working to pass government inspection.

It presently has 2 speed switch but contrary to what the downloadable manual, which I found for the 66 bug, says, it is not a push pull switch.
It rotates clockwise to slow speed and then another 'notch' to reach the 'high' speed. Is this possibly from a different year?

It has a push button in the center of the switch which I understand opens the washer 'valve' which is part of the swtich.

If one has to remove the switch to service/repair it (if that is even possible), how does one remove the 'knob' so that one can unscrew the retaining 'nut'.

Are these switches even repairable?

If not, are there any 6 volt washer pumps which one could use in place of the tire pressure method of forcing the washer fluid to the nozzles.
i.e. I imagine a generic 12 volt pump won't work?
i.e. it is still a 6 volt system

Thks,
Dwight

[h~moto]

The `66 Beetle used air pressure to operate the windshield wiper but it did not get the pressure from the spare tire. There is a tire type valve on the bottle that you use to pressurize the bottle. I believe that the 1968 model is when VW started to use pressure from the spare tire to operate the washer system. Do you have all the components of the washer system? If so, pressurize the bottle and see if it works. If you don't have the parts, I'm sure the parts that use pressure from the spare tire will work. It just won't be original.
To remove the knob, turn it counter clockwise. The nut is not a hex nut. It has two slots. I use a pair of needle nose pliers. I open the pliers just enough to engage the two slots. It's kinda awkward to use so be careful not to mar anything. The pliers I use are old and stiff, making it better suited for removing the nuts. I would imagine there is a special tool for removing them.

[dcarlson12]

It isn't the 'nu't that I am worried about. It is the knob itself which must be removed before the 'nut' can be accessed. Does the knob just 'pull' off or ?
I don't see any pin or set screw. Like I said, it rotates clockwise to turn the wipers on. If I turn it counterclockwise to shut off the wipers it doesn't seem that it can be turned further counterclockwise to remove it. It it did, one might not be able to shut the wipers off because the knob would just unscrew.

Regarding the washer fluid reservoir valve, I just now removed the filler cap/hose assembly and applied compressed air pressure to the schrader valve connector. I expected air to flow into the reservoir and escape thru the filler opening but it did not. Perhaps the schrader valve in the valve stem on the reservoir is faulty and will not let air pass into the reservoir.?

And I checked the reply about the tire not being the source of compressed air and it was a correct comment. But I thought that perhaps one could still use the tire as a larger air reservoir to pressurize the reservoir.

Thks,
Dwight

[h~moto]

My car is like yours in that it has a two speed switch (but a single speed motor) that rotates instead of a push-pull. I do not believe that my switch is original. I'm leery of telling someone to try something that might break something on their car, so I will just tell you how my switch works. If I continue to twist the wiper switch knob counterclockwise past the "off" notch, the knob will unscrew off the switch. I twist it clockwise to reinstall the knob and continue to twist until the knob reaches the second "notch". Then I give the knob another nudge in the clockwise condition. If I don't get it tight enough, when I turn the knob counterclockwise it will start to unscrew instead off turn off the wipers like you are concerned about. If your wipers are working it may not be necessary to mess with the switch.

When I bought my `66 I could not get air to pass thru the schrader valve either. I removed the valve assembly from the reservoir and found that there was a clogged hole in the assembly base. I cleaned it out with a wire and it has worked fine since. If I remember correctly, when the valve assembly is removed it drops into the reservoir and needs to be fished out thru the filler opening.

I use my car as a daily driver and had a concern that the amount of compressed air that the reservoir could hold was not sufficient enough for a car that gets daily use. Turns out to be an OK system.

[dcarlson12]

Thanks for the great reply.
Can you advise how to remove the reservoir?
I am afraid to force/break something if I do it the wrong way. I imagine I will have to remove the valve assembly as you did and to fish the assembly out I will need to have the reservoir out of the car.

So you find that it is not necessary to connect the reservoir to the spare tire?
I didn't think the reservoir would have enough air volume to empty a full reservoir.

Can you advise if you hear any kind of click or is there any kind of movement of the push button which activates the washer valve?

When I press on mine, I don't hear anything or feel any movement of the push button.

Thks again,
Dwight

[h~moto]

I removed the reservoir from the car to work on it. There are two holes in the metal "shelf" under the reservoir. There are two protrusions cast into the underneath of the reservoir that fit into the holes. I too had a concern that I might break it trying to remove it. I can't really remember if I had to pry more up or out to get it to pop out. I own a small but wide flat pry bar. My guess is that I used that to remove it. Maybe others reading this can make a recommendation.

The owners manual says to pressurize to 36 PSI. The fill opening is designed in such a way that after the reservoir is filled, there is still a pocket of air at the top of the reservoir. This allows for enough compressed air to empty the reservoir.

I had replaced my washer system with all new rubber tubing. You may want to empty out the compartment so you can check for leaks once the system is pressurized.

The push button makes no clicking noise. My guess is that maybe there is no movement in the button because there is no pressure in the system to return the button to the unpressed position. I'm not sure of that though. I would work on pressurizing the system before worrying about the washer button.

[dcarlson12]

Well I removed the valve assembly from the reservoir and then removed the schrader valve from the male fitting.
I see that the schrader valve has a small 'nipple' on the bottom. This nipple seems to jam into the hole at the bottom of the fitting and prevents the air from entering the reservoir when I connect the air filling fitting (standard type used for all types of tires).

I went to a bicycle shop to show them the schrader valve and asked if all the schrader valves have that small nipple.
They gave me another schrader valve for free and it has the same nipple as the one from the car.

For those who have this set up, would it be possible for someone to unscrew the valve from their assembly and see it their schrader valve has that nipple?

I was thinking of grinding off the nipple it case that is the problem.

It is hard to see down into the fitting but the small hole at the very bottom is clear. Not sure how the inside bottom of the fitting should look.

Thks again,
Dwight

[h~moto]

I'm not sure if your valve is of the same design as mine, but if I ground off the "nipple" on mine, I would be afraid that the little "cup" that seals off the air would detach from the pin that runs down the center. The valve in mine is only slightly over 3/4" long and is not long enough to reach the bottom of the valve assembly even when it is being pushed in by the air chuck. Is yours longer than 3/4"? Maybe try an auto parts or tire store.

[dcarlson12]

Just following up for the benefit/knowledge of others, I installed the schrader valve which I obtained from the bicycle shop. It is about 1/16" shorter than the one which was originally in the fitting and now air passes freely through the fitting when the air 'chuck' is pressed onto the fitting/valve.
Possibly a PO had installed an 'aftermarket' valve which was just that bit longer than the required/appropriate valve.
Excited now to see if the push button/valve on the wiper switch will work.
Of course I must first figure out a way to reinstall the fitting from inside the reservoir. Looks more complicated than putting a ship into a bottle.

[Blue Baron]

Chiming in late.

The reservoir simply "snaps" into the two holes in the shelf, but with the reservoir being 48 years old, I'd worry about breaking it by prying. I'd jack up the car and try and pop them from underneath.

Happily I live in Florida, where the only requirement is a rear license plate. I use Rainex for windshield wipers. The stock setup is pretty nifty, but there are electric aftermarket systems available.

[dcarlson12]

All is now well i.e. working.
The new schrader valve worked like a hot **** and once I blew some compressed air back thru the nozzles with the small hose removed, I have working washers.
Kind of impressed how well they seem to work. Of course I don't know how often one has to 'top up' the air pressure in the reservoir but perhaps every gas fill would work.
Thanks again for all the advise.

Now I just have to finish repairing the rusted out floors and replace the clutch cable which I discovered was operating with about 5 out of 9 strands broken off. I gather this is not an uncommon occurrence.

I guess I will have to learn to pull the engine and transmission at some point also since it tends to want to pop out of second gear and my engine front seal leaves a deposit of oil whenever the car is parked.

Did I really need a second 'project' car? sigh....

But at least my wife is happy.
Cheers,
Dwight

[Blue Baron]

Did I really need a second 'project' car? sigh....

Yes. (Or make it your first.)