Stalling
Stalling
Just the other day my bug started stalling everytime I pull up to a red light but it starts right back up and I am not sure why it is doing this. I also think I need to change the oil but I dont think that would be making it stall.
Stalling
Check the idle cut off solenoid on the left side of the carb. It is a cylinder looking thing about as round as a nickel and able 2.5 inches long. It should have one wire on it that connects to the hot low voltage side of the coil. To check if it is working have someone turn the key on and off and you should hear it pull on and off. Bassically a clicking sound. Or, leave the key on and unplg and plug in the wire to do the same thing if you have no one to turn the key.
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Ok, so back to basics. Does it die as you're coming to a stop, or as you're sitting at a light waiting? Is it an instant die or does it sound like it's sputtering and choking? Could be a fuel delivery issue (like idle jet being plugged), could be something else electrical (like a wire shorting out as the car rocks forward under braking load)
When you're slowing down, do you put the clutch in and let the brakes do all the work or do you downshift to slow the car and then get on the binders after you're down into second or first?
When you're slowing down, do you put the clutch in and let the brakes do all the work or do you downshift to slow the car and then get on the binders after you're down into second or first?
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- Location: The 480
Ok, that sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Here's some things to check for.
When was the last time the carb was gone though?
Float adjusted correctly?
Correct jetting / jets not fouled
No sediment in the bowl on the carb
Have you checked to see if the fuel filter needs to be replaced?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Have you adjusted the mixture correctly?
Make sure your vacuum lines are connected correctly if you have a vac. advance distributor (one with a vacuum canister opposite the condenser, not an 009)
In essence, give it a good and thorough tune-up:
Rebuild / readjust the carb
Replace points, condenser, cap, and rotor.
Inspect plug wires. If they look old, replace them with good 8 mil shielded Bosch wires.
Adjust your timing
Adjust your valves (should be done with the engine DEAD COLD. Let it sit overnight and do the valves first thing in the morning).
Inspect and adjust/replace your fan belt
Replace your plugs.
When you do the carb, get the fiber/paper style manifold gaskets. The metal ones don't seal as well and they have a tendency to cause vac. leaks.
When was the last time the carb was gone though?
Float adjusted correctly?
Correct jetting / jets not fouled
No sediment in the bowl on the carb
Have you checked to see if the fuel filter needs to be replaced?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Have you adjusted the mixture correctly?
Make sure your vacuum lines are connected correctly if you have a vac. advance distributor (one with a vacuum canister opposite the condenser, not an 009)
In essence, give it a good and thorough tune-up:
Rebuild / readjust the carb
Replace points, condenser, cap, and rotor.
Inspect plug wires. If they look old, replace them with good 8 mil shielded Bosch wires.
Adjust your timing
Adjust your valves (should be done with the engine DEAD COLD. Let it sit overnight and do the valves first thing in the morning).
Inspect and adjust/replace your fan belt
Replace your plugs.
When you do the carb, get the fiber/paper style manifold gaskets. The metal ones don't seal as well and they have a tendency to cause vac. leaks.
Makes Sense
fatalifeaten gives all great advise and probally what you need to do to make sure everything works. If you did all that you would fix the issue for sure but never really know what it was. You might just want to pull the idle cut off out and see if it is actually moving or ensure that it is not broken. Stranger things have happened. Unhook the wire and just screw it out. To test, hook the wire back up and rest the side agains the carb or some other grounding point. Then do the same test and see if it is moving. If all looks well it will be one less thing to remove from the carb when you re-build. Just my 1.5 cents......
One other thing
An air leak will cause this as well. If the manifold to the head gasket has failed, excessive air leakage will cause a simular issue. You did not say if stock manifolds or replaced with dual port heads. If dual port, sometimes the rubbers between the end caps and the manifold fail and casue major air leakage. Also, some manifilds have a port on them just below the carb to hook up a vaccum line. If the line or cover has fallen off that may also cause a excessive air leak that will cause this issue. that was my other .5 cents.
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- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:34 pm
- Location: Tampa, Florida
alright well i know i havent been on this in while. i did pretty much all of the tune up work except replace the spark plugs and check the wires. i put a new fuel filter in and it seems to be running just fine after i put that in.
But i was driving it a round for about 10 minutes today and there was one time where i went to give it gas and it sounded like it stalled but right when i took my foot off the gas it fired right back up. could the mixture be to rich?
But i was driving it a round for about 10 minutes today and there was one time where i went to give it gas and it sounded like it stalled but right when i took my foot off the gas it fired right back up. could the mixture be to rich?