Strainer; Oil Filter; Fuel Filter

[Newbiea1]

Hi,

I'm new to VW Beetle ownership.

In my prior non-VWs, I put magnets on top of the drain plugs (with Superglue) which caught metal engine shavings. I want to do this with a Beetle that uses a strainer, but don't know where to put the magnets.

Is it a good idea to add an adapter and oil filter? If so, what brands are good and where should the oil filter be placed?

I read that it's a good idea to relocate the engine bay fuel filter, but I can't find out where it should be relocated. Also, how, if at all, would I secure it on relocation?

Thanks!

[fatalifeaten]

Hi,

I'm new to VW Beetle ownership.

In my prior non-VWs, I put magnets on top of the drain plugs (with Superglue) which caught metal engine shavings. I want to do this with a Beetle that uses a strainer, but don't know where to put the magnets.

Is it a good idea to add an adapter and oil filter? If so, what brands are good and where should the oil filter be placed?

I read that it's a good idea to relocate the engine bay fuel filter, but I can't find out where it should be relocated. Also, how, if at all, would I secure it on relocation?

Thanks!

Not sure on the magnet part, I think I recall people talking about attaching bar magnets to the oil pickup tube, but I've never done it. Yes, it's definitely not a bad idea to add a filter. There are several options out there for this, the easiest one's probably to replace the pump cover with one that allows for a filter to be added. then route the lines over to the bumper mounting bolts and drop your adapter in under the rear driver fender. Watch out for hot exhaust components, they tend to melt hoses and heat up your oil. Hard lines and AN fittings may be a really good way to go here. Ideally, having a case drilled and tapped for full flow oiling and then adding your fittings in is a better way to go. This requires machine shop time to do right.

ABSOLUTELY GET THAT FILTER OUT OF THE ENGINE BAY! That and old fuel lines cause almost all VW engine fires. You can relocate it up under the fuel tank up front, or add it inline next to the transmission between the hard line and the firewall. If you're using the 50 cent plastic ones, they don't weigh enough to need more than a hose clamp at each end of the fuel line splices. If you're using something more substantial then you can hold it in place with larger clamps, wire, zip ties, whatever works best. Make sure it's secure, can't rub against anything, and isnt' going to be crushed or otherwise damaged and you're probably good.

[Newbiea1]

Where is the oil pick up tube and what does it look like?
What is the "pump cover" and what does it look like?

Do I need to add a high volume oil pump due to the extra volume of oil upon the addition of the oil filter? I'm concerned that the oil pressure will be lowered with the extra oil.

I read elsewhere (on this forum?) that it's a good idea to add a second fuel filter, but is that overkill?

[fatalifeaten]

when you take the oil strainer screen out, look up inside the case. See that tube thingy? That's the pickup tube.

The oil pump cover is on the rear of the engine under the lower pulley.about 4 inches square. You don't need a high volume oil pump for just a filter.

If you have nice clean lines a single fuel filter should be good provided you change it when it gets cruddy. If there's a lot of rust or sediment in your tank and lines you may need to run more than one for a while until it clears. you can run them in series right next to each other, placement isn't super critical as long as they're not in the engine bay and are protected.

[Blue Baron]

In addition to this sage advice, I'd suggest you replace the old gas hose while you're under the car installing the filter. Use only German fabric-covered gas hose. I put the filter inline next to the transmission and replace it every third or fourth oil change because I'm under there anyway. (And replace the hose in front under the tank as well.)

And speaking of oil changes, unless you live in a dusty climate, I wouldn't worry about adding an oil filter. Just change your oil a lot. (Air cleaner too.) I do it every 2,500 miles, but every 2,000 isn't too often.

If you have your heart set on a filter or are running an exotic engine, I'd say yes to the full-flow, otherwise just stick to a regular oil change regiment.

As to the magnet, you can buy a magnetic drain plug, or better yet, buy a rare earth magnet and drill your old drain plug for it.

[Newbiea1]

I'm planning on getting a stock VW Bug. I also live in the San Francisco Bay Area, where there's lots of rusty cars and humidity. My idea about the oil filter is to extend the oil change intervals with the OEM strainer. If that is possible, how often can I change the oil with an without an oil filter?

The Bugs I've seen have strainers without an oil drain plug, so I'm thinking of gluing a magnet somewhere (on top?) of the strainer assembly.

I plan to buy transparent fuel filters, but is there a way to tell when the fuel filters need to be changed? I saw a Bug the other day and the fuel in the fuel filter looked dark, like apple juice. Is that dirty fuel?

[Blue Baron]

My suggestion is to change the oil more frequently, not less.

If your engine doesn't have the drain plug on the sump plate, you can buy one that does and swap it out next oil change. I rotate cleaning the strainer and changing the gaskets with using just the drain plug every other oil change.

Forget about gluing a magnet anywhere. No glue sticks for long in hot oil. Clamping one to the pickup tube is a good idea.

If the clear filter looks dark, like apple juice, change it.