Freeway Flyer
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DC-Dubs
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Freeway Flyer
Whats the general consensus on the freeway flyer? I am installing a Bernie Bergman 2010cc in my project 66 and want a taller 4th gear for some highway driving. With a little over 200hp I am thinking about the Pro Street Freeway Flyer. Anybody using the freeway flyer? Comments? Suggestions? 1st, 2nd, and 3rd keep standard ratio but 4th is a little taller for lower RPMs at freeway speeds.
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fatalifeaten
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- Location: The 480
eeeeekers. I'd maybe put some thought into not buying that 2110 from bergman. Not a great reputation in the community.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... 7aaa51f74f
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... 7aaa51f74f
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DC-Dubs
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Thanks again fatalifeaten! I appreciate the input. I read the first page of posts and that was enough to reconsider my engine game plan. My dad has built high performance race engines for many years and had an incredible reputation in the VW/Porsche world. But he lives in New Mexico and has been out of the business for almost 20 years. I would love to build one with his guidance. Time is just the big factor. And logistics too. I will have to give this some serious thought. Thanks again!
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fatalifeaten
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If you can't wait for it, the buyer and seller feedback section on the samba's a good place to learn who the good builders are out there. Take it with a pinch of salt, but you can get a pretty good vibe about how folks do their biz from there. Not sure where you're at geographically, but what about a local vw community? IF there's a decent one in your area they can get you hooked into the good builders near you too.
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DC-Dubs
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Yes, good point. I am near Everett Wa. There is a local VW guy called Bow Wow Automotive. I've done some retail business with them and that's not been bad. The place has a typical old school hippie vibe. Everything looks to be a mess and unorganized. Cars parked and sitting every which way. Stuff just piled up in the shop, but they always seem to be busy. There is also Franklin VW Werks. I'm following them on Face Book. They advertise performance engine building but haven't heard specific engine reviews. I need to take the time to do some local research.
I posted some local VW events in the Northwest events section. It would be a good time to get the low down..
I posted some local VW events in the Northwest events section. It would be a good time to get the low down..
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fatalifeaten
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... 87&start=0
Franklin's is a good shop. They stand behind their work and you definitely get what you pay for. You're dead right about doing your research before you make a decision, if more people took the time to learn about the community and the good vs bad shops, there'd be a lot less shady stuff happening.
Would it bug your dad if you called and asked him for advice on choosing a builder? He should be able to give you some tips on what to ask and what to watch out for, and you can then go interview some shops and see which one works best for you. I've had the chance several times to talk with friends and acquaintances who are builders about it, and almost every time, they've told me that most people what a monster powerplant just because it's a monster powerplant. When they really get into talking with the customer about their driving style and intentions for the engine, it becomes reasonably easy for them to start narrowing down what would be the best fit for them vs what they think they want. You always get those people who are insistent on having the 2332 dual turbo water injected efi boost controlled buzzword bingo engines, but most people will listen the the guy they're paying to build an engine to their liking when he's legitimately trying to help them make the right choices so that they can enjoy it for a long time.
The guys who will take this time to work with you and are willing to stand by their work are the ones you should throw your money at every single time. The odds are great that they're not the cheapest by any means, but you pay once for quality parts and work, or you pay over and over again for cheap.
the tl;dr version:
Franklins is a good shop, go talk to them, and :
Fast
Reliable
Cheap
Pick 2.
Franklin's is a good shop. They stand behind their work and you definitely get what you pay for. You're dead right about doing your research before you make a decision, if more people took the time to learn about the community and the good vs bad shops, there'd be a lot less shady stuff happening.
Would it bug your dad if you called and asked him for advice on choosing a builder? He should be able to give you some tips on what to ask and what to watch out for, and you can then go interview some shops and see which one works best for you. I've had the chance several times to talk with friends and acquaintances who are builders about it, and almost every time, they've told me that most people what a monster powerplant just because it's a monster powerplant. When they really get into talking with the customer about their driving style and intentions for the engine, it becomes reasonably easy for them to start narrowing down what would be the best fit for them vs what they think they want. You always get those people who are insistent on having the 2332 dual turbo water injected efi boost controlled buzzword bingo engines, but most people will listen the the guy they're paying to build an engine to their liking when he's legitimately trying to help them make the right choices so that they can enjoy it for a long time.
The guys who will take this time to work with you and are willing to stand by their work are the ones you should throw your money at every single time. The odds are great that they're not the cheapest by any means, but you pay once for quality parts and work, or you pay over and over again for cheap.
the tl;dr version:
Franklins is a good shop, go talk to them, and :
Fast
Reliable
Cheap
Pick 2.
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DC-Dubs
- Senior Member
- Posts: 138
- Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 1:58 pm
- Location: Everett, Washington
- Contact:
Choice! I will pay them a visit after I put together my objectives and collect my arsenal of questions.
My Dads philosophy was very much the same as you described. He really was among the best builders in the 70s and 80s. He avoided the lime light and let the customer take the credit in making the right choices even if he insisted that a properly built up 1600 was the best choice for performance and reliability versus what the customer wanted, or what ever the case was. Don't get me wrong, in the end he would build whatever the customer wanted. As big and as bad as they get in some cases. But usually what the customer gladly agreed on was not always what they initially intended to have built after consulting together with my dad. And were much better off and happy in the end... If I had half the knowledge my dad did I would be happy. But it's not even knowledge as much as it is experience. The insight my dad has in connection with experience and knowledge on Building motors and all things VW/Porsche is really something. Something that is becoming more and more hard to find.
I really enjoy fixing and restoring VWs and I really admire people like Gregg with his technology 66 and the garage resto he did. What a fabulous job! I just work out of my garage too. But I operate on a shoe string budget. My three kids are really greedy. They all want to eat like three times a day and insist on wearing shoes and having clothes and stuff.. I'm just kidding. My kids are my life and then VWs..
But thanks again on the excellent advice!
My Dads philosophy was very much the same as you described. He really was among the best builders in the 70s and 80s. He avoided the lime light and let the customer take the credit in making the right choices even if he insisted that a properly built up 1600 was the best choice for performance and reliability versus what the customer wanted, or what ever the case was. Don't get me wrong, in the end he would build whatever the customer wanted. As big and as bad as they get in some cases. But usually what the customer gladly agreed on was not always what they initially intended to have built after consulting together with my dad. And were much better off and happy in the end... If I had half the knowledge my dad did I would be happy. But it's not even knowledge as much as it is experience. The insight my dad has in connection with experience and knowledge on Building motors and all things VW/Porsche is really something. Something that is becoming more and more hard to find.
I really enjoy fixing and restoring VWs and I really admire people like Gregg with his technology 66 and the garage resto he did. What a fabulous job! I just work out of my garage too. But I operate on a shoe string budget. My three kids are really greedy. They all want to eat like three times a day and insist on wearing shoes and having clothes and stuff.. I'm just kidding. My kids are my life and then VWs..
But thanks again on the excellent advice!
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Blue Baron
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- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:34 pm
- Location: Tampa, Florida
Taller gearing slows the speed of the fan, causing the engine to run hotter. I don't know what you plan extra to help cool it, but the stock cooling will be insufficient as the engine turns lower revs. Running at high speeds at lower RPM is also more of a strain on the bottom end.
Frankly, I would not put a so-called freeway flier transmission in a Volkswagen. I just stay in the right lane and enjoy the ride.
Frankly, I would not put a so-called freeway flier transmission in a Volkswagen. I just stay in the right lane and enjoy the ride.
run cooler
Synthetic oil should lower the temp. Even with the fan speed difference.
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Blue Baron
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- Location: Tampa, Florida
Really
So he is looking for a solution to a know issue and it appears there are no real answers to his address his concerns.
Let me try again. There are 2 options as I see it. Be a purest and make it as it came off the factory floor in 1966. A really good choline if you do not intend to drive at modern highway speeds without beating the engine apart as you over revthe design of the crank and take out the bearing journals. So, if you want stock, from a purists view, you get to drive around town at designed speeds. That is just fine.
If you was to go faster, changes must be made. First you must address the rpm limits of the crank beating the case apart. That can be done by replacing the crank with a counter balanced unit. With the intended higher speeds, you may get valve float because agin they are not deigned to run and the may float open. With that, the lifter bases are too small and may fail due to the excess rpm. Replace with a quality set that will take the rpm. Ignition, tons of discussion on that. I would stick with vacuum advance but replace with a electronic ignition. The vacuum, believe it or not, advances faster than a centrifical advance and will vary as needed to speed as indicated by vacuum.
Now back to the tranny. If you change it, thefan speed will be impacted and theenginewill run hoter. That is a given. As there are no aftermarket sources for pullys that can adjust the high speed fan speed, you have to address the issues another way. If you want stock, ther is no way to do it. Drive it with the tranny and know you may eventually have issues. If you want to address, add high volume oil pump, full flow the case, ahh an external cooler and oil filter while you are at it. This may address the issues. Make sure you run a oil temp sensor to monitor as needed. Gene berg has a nice one that replaces the dipstick and wires right into the current system.
Now to oil types, thw vw engine was designed long before synthetic anything. There is no general consen see any whe. There is opinion and sales hype. Yes the engine is air dolled, so is a Harley, they have been offering synthetic for years and I have ran it for years. Most private aircraft are air cooled and they too have been running synthetic for years.
All this rant to say, you have to make a choice and take a chance if you don't want to remain stock and drive the car as it was originally designed. It is all a choice and a chance. Bottom line, you are having fun and doing something you like. Go for it and have fun.
Btw, I have a ff, rebuilt and replaced all parts as indicated and have been running fine. As mine was a daily driver for years, I needed more highway speed than stock offered. Have fun
Let me try again. There are 2 options as I see it. Be a purest and make it as it came off the factory floor in 1966. A really good choline if you do not intend to drive at modern highway speeds without beating the engine apart as you over revthe design of the crank and take out the bearing journals. So, if you want stock, from a purists view, you get to drive around town at designed speeds. That is just fine.
If you was to go faster, changes must be made. First you must address the rpm limits of the crank beating the case apart. That can be done by replacing the crank with a counter balanced unit. With the intended higher speeds, you may get valve float because agin they are not deigned to run and the may float open. With that, the lifter bases are too small and may fail due to the excess rpm. Replace with a quality set that will take the rpm. Ignition, tons of discussion on that. I would stick with vacuum advance but replace with a electronic ignition. The vacuum, believe it or not, advances faster than a centrifical advance and will vary as needed to speed as indicated by vacuum.
Now back to the tranny. If you change it, thefan speed will be impacted and theenginewill run hoter. That is a given. As there are no aftermarket sources for pullys that can adjust the high speed fan speed, you have to address the issues another way. If you want stock, ther is no way to do it. Drive it with the tranny and know you may eventually have issues. If you want to address, add high volume oil pump, full flow the case, ahh an external cooler and oil filter while you are at it. This may address the issues. Make sure you run a oil temp sensor to monitor as needed. Gene berg has a nice one that replaces the dipstick and wires right into the current system.
Now to oil types, thw vw engine was designed long before synthetic anything. There is no general consen see any whe. There is opinion and sales hype. Yes the engine is air dolled, so is a Harley, they have been offering synthetic for years and I have ran it for years. Most private aircraft are air cooled and they too have been running synthetic for years.
All this rant to say, you have to make a choice and take a chance if you don't want to remain stock and drive the car as it was originally designed. It is all a choice and a chance. Bottom line, you are having fun and doing something you like. Go for it and have fun.
Btw, I have a ff, rebuilt and replaced all parts as indicated and have been running fine. As mine was a daily driver for years, I needed more highway speed than stock offered. Have fun
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Blue Baron
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:34 pm
- Location: Tampa, Florida
Re: Really
The car was designed to be driven flat out. A stock '66 will top out at 75 mph, which is sufficient for the slow lane.darzoom wrote:There are 2 options as I see it. Be a purest and make it as it came off the factory floor in 1966. A really good choline if you do not intend to drive at modern highway speeds without beating the engine apart as you over rev the design of the crank and take out the bearing journals. So, if you want stock, from a purists view, you get to drive around town at designed speeds. That is just fine.
Freeway Flyer
Hi.
This seems rather interesting- more a battle of stock vs modifications!!
I do a comfortable 70mph and works well for me. I'd cast my vote on stock...plus I think that is an impressive speed for the car that age and not too slow anyway (not to mention the attention it attracts)...
This seems rather interesting- more a battle of stock vs modifications!!
I do a comfortable 70mph and works well for me. I'd cast my vote on stock...plus I think that is an impressive speed for the car that age and not too slow anyway (not to mention the attention it attracts)...