Question about driving long distance (sorta)

Dissolved · Post by **Dissolved** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:42 am

So i'm making my first buy! it just so happens to be a 1966 Volkswagen Beetle!

So here goes.. It being bought from 3 hours away from I live =O

Should I worry about driving it this far on a 70 mph highway?

What should I check before the drive?

aka I over think everything rather than enjoying my pretty drive home!

fatalifeaten · Post by **fatalifeaten** » Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:15 pm

If you're concerned about it, before you go, stop in at your local VW parts store and see if they have a tow bar. I think mine was 80 bucks but they may be close to a hundred now. Take it with you (and a truck or something that can tow). That way, if it keels over on you it won't end up left on the side of the road.

70 may be a bit... Well, let's just say 60-65 is probably more likely and should be safe.

You're going to want to get that plastic fuel filter the heck out of the engine bay as your first personalization. More poor old VW's are lost to engine fires than is necessary, and a lot of times the fuel filter's the culprit. Put it up above the transmission on the rear driver's side or under the fuel tank up front, but get it OUT of the engine compartment.

Dissolved · Post by **Dissolved** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 9:43 am

That makes sense.. are plastic fuel filters common?? I'll be sure to move it asap..

Should I replace it?

I also made it home alive! only one hiccup when i stopped to get gas.. it had a hard time starting back up.. we let it sit for a little and it started back up like normal.. I did notice that plastic fuel filter was very low with gas when it wouldnt start and when it did start it had lots of fuel in it.. What could cause this problem?

Thanks for the response also =D

1966veedub · Post by **1966veedub** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 10:20 pm

I had the same problem with my '66. It ended up being a clogged gas tank filter located on the bottom of the gas tank. I can't guarantee this is the same problem you're having, but it's probably a good idea to do this anyway:

Drain the gas out of the tank, remove the 4 bolts holding it in place, disconnect the fuel line below the tank and turn the tank over and replace the filter with a new one. They're less than $10 from most online VW parts vendors. Might be a good idea to flush the tank out while it's empty to remove any crud or particles that may have accumulated over time.

Good luck and welcome to the '66 VW world!

Dissolved · Post by **Dissolved** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 12:27 pm

1966veedub wrote:I had the same problem with my '66. It ended up being a clogged gas tank filter located on the bottom of the gas tank. I can't guarantee this is the same problem you're having, but it's probably a good idea to do this anyway:

Drain the gas out of the tank, remove the 4 bolts holding it in place, disconnect the fuel line below the tank and turn the tank over and replace the filter with a new one. They're less than $10 from most online VW parts vendors. Might be a good idea to flush the tank out while it's empty to remove any crud or particles that may have accumulated over time.

Good luck and welcome to the '66 VW world!

thank you for the advise!! once it stops raining i think ill pull it out of the garage and get to moving some things around! =D

It does look like it is leaking oil.. not a ton.. but some..
If i was standing at the back of the car there is a small dot of oil (over a couple days)
But there is one about 15inches towards the front from the back that is a little more.. maybe the size of two writing pens side by side..

What is the best way to finding this leak? I read that its common to have the small dot size leak.. its really isnt much of a leak.. but the other one worries me!

fatalifeaten · Post by **fatalifeaten** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:48 pm

It's not a leak, it's your car marking it's spot.

Crawl under, and look up. I'm going to guess that it's either a leaking pushrod tube, a leaking oil cooler seal, or the rear main. The pushrod tubes would be off center on either side, the oil cooler seals will be driver side and drip between the cylinders (usually). Rear main will leak from the front of the engine where it meets the transmission.

For pushrod tubes, you can get away with replacing the seals without taking the engine out if you replace the pushrod tube with an adjustable one. Oil cooler seals can be done with the engine in as well, you're going to end up tearing the whole top end off to get to it (the cooler's inside the fan shroud so carb, manifold, alternator and stand, and the shroud all need to come off). If it's the rear main, then engine's got to come out and the flywheel has to come off. This takes an impact gun that can do greater than 235 lb feet on the gland nut and you'll need to reset the end play, so if it comes to that and you don't think you're up to the task, take it in. Improperly setting the end play or not having the flywheel torqued to spec WILL destroy your engine, it's only a question of how soon it'll happen.

Dissolved · Post by **Dissolved** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:50 pm

fatalifeaten wrote:It's not a leak, it's your car marking it's spot.

Crawl under, and look up. I'm going to guess that it's either a leaking pushrod tube, a leaking oil cooler seal, or the rear main. The pushrod tubes would be off center on either side, the oil cooler seals will be driver side and drip between the cylinders (usually). Rear main will leak from the front of the engine where it meets the transmission.

For pushrod tubes, you can get away with replacing the seals without taking the engine out if you replace the pushrod tube with an adjustable one. Oil cooler seals can be done with the engine in as well, you're going to end up tearing the whole top end off to get to it (the cooler's inside the fan shroud so carb, manifold, alternator and stand, and the shroud all need to come off). If it's the rear main, then engine's got to come out and the flywheel has to come off. This takes an impact gun that can do greater than 235 lb feet on the gland nut and you'll need to reset the end play, so if it comes to that and you don't think you're up to the task, take it in. Improperly setting the end play or not having the flywheel torqued to spec WILL destroy your engine, it's only a question of how soon it'll happen.

haha I think i will check the first two.. i dont have the tools for the third yet.. thanks for the help! Ill post about what i find! I need to go ahead and move the fuel filter anyways..

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:03 pm

It could be as simple as the six 8mm nuts on the oil drain plate need tightening.

DPIGGUY · Post by **DPIGGUY** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:11 pm

[quote="Blue Baron"]It could be as simple as the six 8mm nuts on the oil drain plate need tightening.[/quote]

But don;t tighten them too tight! (don't ask me how I know!)

Dissolved · Post by **Dissolved** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:24 am

Blue Baron wrote:It could be as simple as the six 8mm nuts on the oil drain plate need tightening.

I did check this.. it was not the problem.. I

It seems to be the main rear seal..

I don't not have the tools to pull the motor.. Now.. the real question is.. I have a quote.. the guy i called said.. it probably is the seal.. but he says its probably not just the seal and would need some flywheel work ect because thats whats causing the seal failure.. which he says.. could be 300 to 500 bucks to repair depending on the problem..

Should I spend that money on tools and work on it myself? And or is this dude blowing smoke and looking for a more expensive fix rather than just changing a seal?

fatalifeaten · Post by **fatalifeaten** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:32 pm

3-500 is reasonable for the work. As to whether or not you should do it yourself, ask yourself 2 questions.

1. Is this your only mode of transportation and/or can you be without it while you learn how to fix it

2. Are you mechanically adept and can you repair a lawnmower engine?

If you get no, yes, yes, yes, then go for it! Rear main is about 12-15 bucks. A new flywheel can run between 75-125 (depending on what you get), and having one resurfaced (if needed) is probably about 50.

Tools:
* If you don't have an air or electric impact, see if you can rent one, as well as a dial indicator (will need to set the flywheel end play)
* A flywheel lock is <10 bucks and is one of the most valuable tools you will ever buy if you intend to stay in VW's as a hobby or profession for a long time.
* Floor Jack (or an ATV jack)
* Jackstands
* Engine stand (optional but very helpful)
Everything else is hand tools.

Dissolved · Post by **Dissolved** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:12 pm

ok.. so..

the motor was pulled and the rear main seal and the o ring have been replaced.. my mechanic said he didnt see any cracks on the case.. put the motor back in and it still leaking!

he said he did a run through and checked the shaft for a leak also.. but said since the clutch didnt have any oil on it.. that made him think it was not that..

he said the only thing he thinks it may be.. would be a hair line crack that he missed... and if its not that.. he does not know!!

ahhh any ideas?

Dissolved · Post by **Dissolved** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:38 am

yuck.. seems the arrow to the left is pointing to the stud that seems to have been pulled.. so it wont tighten

fatalifeaten · Post by **fatalifeaten** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 2:55 pm

If you have a pulled stud your case halves aren't flush an it's going to leak. Only way to fix it is to break it down have the case cleaned, heilicoil the stud, and rebuild.

Or live with the leak.

Dissolved · Post by **Dissolved** » Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:40 pm

fatalifeaten wrote:If you have a pulled stud your case halves aren't flush an it's going to leak. Only way to fix it is to break it down have the case cleaned, heilicoil the stud, and rebuild.

Or live with the leak.

looks like im going to take the plunge and do all of it except the heilicoil myself.

i think it was meant to be this way haha what better way to get to know your car