removing engine

brentsmith · Post by **brentsmith** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 6:09 pm

Well, there have actually been two that have failed. The first was just a straight tube without the flared or mushroom head. It wasn't an adapter for anything. The second was just the seals that I pulled that were in the car when I bought it. I thought they might have some life left in them, but they either didn't or were themselves the wrong kind.

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 10:50 am

You should show a photo of the entire cooler and the type of seals you're using. Also, it wouldn't be a bad idea to show us the holes in the case under the cooler, that way we can tell for sure what you have.

brentsmith · Post by **brentsmith** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:12 pm

OK. Here are the pictures I just took. Sorry about the debris in the picture. Pretty sure it came out of the fan shroud when I removed it. I always clean it off when reassembling everything.

brentsmith · Post by **brentsmith** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:14 pm

And here are the pictures I just took of the cooler itself.

If you need more pictures or info, please let me know.

Thanks!

brentsmith · Post by **brentsmith** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:15 pm

Last pics.

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 11:12 pm

Yikes. That debris is bad. So bad that I would consider replacing the cooler. New genuine VW coolers are available for around $50.

The seals are available from most VW parts suppliers for a couple bucks and are also included in the engine rebuild gasket set.

And yes, this is the 1970 or earlier cooler, not the doghouse style.

brentsmith · Post by **brentsmith** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 8:43 am

Well, I've definitely considered it more than once. If I do replace it, is there a way that I can make sure I'm getting the right seals to match the new cooler to my case and be done with it?

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 5:47 pm

Yes, match them to your old seals. You need the barrel type, not the donut type.

brentsmith · Post by **brentsmith** » Mon Nov 22, 2010 6:06 pm

Thanks for all the help! It's been a while since I've posted. I hit a patch of ice on the highway coming home from work and rolled and totaled my van. I'm still healing up, but am hoping to be out in the shop with my Beetle soon, since it's now our only vehicle. New generator, oil cooler and seals, etc. should be arriving soon.

My question is this: Could someone please tell me where to find an exploded view of how the cooling tins fit back together? I have the assembly back on the engine, but there are three smaller pieces that I need to put back in there. I want to paint the tins and fan shroud a combination of shiny silver and black, and really want these other three pieces included (primarily because I want to be sure that the engine isn't going to get too hot).

I can include pics of the parts in question if needs be.

I'm hoping to go out tomorrow and replace the two push rod tubes that were damaged when the jack slipped.

brentsmith · Post by **brentsmith** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:27 pm

Note that with the engine removed it is a good time to replace the engine compartment seal too. That is the rubber strip that surrounds the engine and keeps the hot air out so it's not drawn in by the cooling fan.

I'm just about finished, but how on earth do I get the old engine compartment seal out? It's held in by some pretty strong metal. Are there clips I should look for? I can't locate anything in Muir or Haynes. This is the only thing holding me back from being finished and on the road!

fatalifeaten · Post by **fatalifeaten** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 2:49 pm

it should slide in and out. if it's old and hard, it's going to be a real bear. patience, some WD40 maybe, and time.

brentsmith · Post by **brentsmith** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 7:29 pm

OK. Thanks. I already put the engine back in. Since I wrecked the van, this is our only vehicle and I had to get it running.

I'm thinking that I can just remove the front tin and pull the engine out just a little without actually dropping it and just replace the seals before summer. I'm not sure how hot the summers are here, but I doubt any hot air will be sucked in to overheat the engine in the Wyoming winter.

By the way, it looks like there's supposed to be a seal going all the way around. The seal I got won't. I'll take a picture of what I have and post it tomorrow (been in the shop all day, and not going back, even though I want to a little). Maybe you can give me the name of the seal that goes the rest of the way around if you see what I have.

Thanks!

BERHAN · Post by **BERHAN** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 11:38 pm

there's two engine seals, one is a bell housing seal (the one that goes above the transmission) it's shorter than the rear engine seal (which is the other seal) http://shop.westcoastmetric.com/viewPro ... D=111-741G, http://shop.westcoastmetric.com/viewPro ... D=111-705A. hope this helps, also if you put so powder in the channel, you can get the seals to slide easily....Terry

BERHAN · Post by **BERHAN** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 11:50 pm

oops, I sent a broken link, http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw?frame=1.4635. (a) is the engine seal and (b) is the bell housing seal

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:00 pm

The rear engine seal can only be installed with the engine out.