Starting an engine that's been sitting many years
Starting an engine that's been sitting many years
Just bought a 66 so I am new to this forum but I did own a 61 a few years ago (ok a lot of years ago). I am seeking suggestions on how to go about starting an engine that has been sitting for many years. The car was running until the day it was parked. Nothing was done to store it so all fluids etc. are the same as when it was parked. I look forward to all your suggestions & assistance. Thanks
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fatalifeaten
- Senior Member
- Posts: 512
- Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:05 am
- Location: The 480
If you have the time and the money, tear it down and have it tanked at your machine shop. Gunk settles in important places like the oil passages and galleys and you might get it all fired up only to have it seize up shortly after from lack of lubrication or some other unanticipated "event". A nice cleaning followed by a rebuild should eliminate any potential problems.
If you can't or don't want to go that route, do the same things you'd do for a normal tune-up, and add some extra steps.
Drain the oil, replace with new. I've heard of some folks suggesting flushing the case with kerosene, but I have never done that so I can not recommend it.
Replace the plugs, points, rotor, cap, and probably the condenser for good measure. If you have a vacuum advance dizzy, make sure the diaphragm isn't dry-rotted away.
Adjust the valves. You might pull them and give them a good bath then reinstall and adjust them. You'll know whether you need to do this when you pop the valve covers off. Replace the valve cover gaskets with good cork ones.
Soak down all the pushrods. They will be gunked up and need love.
Tear down and rebuild the carb. make sure to soak it in carb dip and then blow out all the passages, gas becomes varnish in as little as 6 months. Might as well replace the intake manifold gaskets while you're at it, they're probably done for if it's been sitting.
Drain and clean the fuel tank. Same reason.
Check your fuel lines, hard and soft, for clogs, leaks, rot, etc. You can stick a throttle cable in a drill and feed it down the hard line to act as an inexpensive "roto-rooter" in the event it's gummed up. Flush with compressed air.
Install at least one in-line fuel filter on the car some place other than in the engine compartment. I like under the tank up front, or at the exit of the hard line above the trans in the rear.
Make sure your timing's set well enough to get the car to start.
Remove and inspect your fuel pump. make sure it's in good working order.
Inspect the exhaust system for signs of sooting, which would likely indicate an exhaust leak. Fix as necessary.
As long as your electrical's all in good shape and there's nothing catastrophically wrong with the engine already, this should get you to the point where it'll at least fire up. From there you'll have to chase whatever problems as they come up.
Good luck!
If you can't or don't want to go that route, do the same things you'd do for a normal tune-up, and add some extra steps.
Drain the oil, replace with new. I've heard of some folks suggesting flushing the case with kerosene, but I have never done that so I can not recommend it.
Replace the plugs, points, rotor, cap, and probably the condenser for good measure. If you have a vacuum advance dizzy, make sure the diaphragm isn't dry-rotted away.
Adjust the valves. You might pull them and give them a good bath then reinstall and adjust them. You'll know whether you need to do this when you pop the valve covers off. Replace the valve cover gaskets with good cork ones.
Soak down all the pushrods. They will be gunked up and need love.
Tear down and rebuild the carb. make sure to soak it in carb dip and then blow out all the passages, gas becomes varnish in as little as 6 months. Might as well replace the intake manifold gaskets while you're at it, they're probably done for if it's been sitting.
Drain and clean the fuel tank. Same reason.
Check your fuel lines, hard and soft, for clogs, leaks, rot, etc. You can stick a throttle cable in a drill and feed it down the hard line to act as an inexpensive "roto-rooter" in the event it's gummed up. Flush with compressed air.
Install at least one in-line fuel filter on the car some place other than in the engine compartment. I like under the tank up front, or at the exit of the hard line above the trans in the rear.
Make sure your timing's set well enough to get the car to start.
Remove and inspect your fuel pump. make sure it's in good working order.
Inspect the exhaust system for signs of sooting, which would likely indicate an exhaust leak. Fix as necessary.
As long as your electrical's all in good shape and there's nothing catastrophically wrong with the engine already, this should get you to the point where it'll at least fire up. From there you'll have to chase whatever problems as they come up.
Good luck!
I bought a 66 a couple of years ago that was sitting (license say 1978). I bought a battery, drained all fluids and replaced with new, cleaned fuel filter and checked lines. I then hooked up a battery 6 volt and tested to see if I had power at the starter, I did. turned the key and started cranking. I put a little gas in the carb and it took a while but it started for a second. Got some fule and put it int the tank, started cranking again. Puff, Puff and it came to life. No smoke and it seemed to run a little ruff and will need some adjustments but it started and runs on its own power.
Yours may be different but these are stong little cars so it may not take long to get it going.
Good luck, keep us posted.
Kevin
Yours may be different but these are stong little cars so it may not take long to get it going.
Good luck, keep us posted.
Kevin
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Blue Baron
- Senior Member
- Posts: 879
- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:34 pm
- Location: Tampa, Florida
Tearing down the engine before even running it would seem a little excessive, but Fatal offers a good check list. I've started engines that have sat for ages, and I'll be starting one soon that's sat for 16 years.
Look in the tank to see if the old gas has turned to tar, or whether it's clean and dry and replace all the old gas hose.
Basics: Tune up, plugs, points and condensor, oil change and valve adjustment. I wouldn't concern myself with gunked-up pushrods unless the oil oil comes out looking like sludge. Change the oil again after running it a couple hours, and at this point you'll know whether the carb needs a rebuild or if the flywheel main seal is leaking (common on old engines).
Look in the tank to see if the old gas has turned to tar, or whether it's clean and dry and replace all the old gas hose.
Basics: Tune up, plugs, points and condensor, oil change and valve adjustment. I wouldn't concern myself with gunked-up pushrods unless the oil oil comes out looking like sludge. Change the oil again after running it a couple hours, and at this point you'll know whether the carb needs a rebuild or if the flywheel main seal is leaking (common on old engines).
Just wanted to say thanks for the suggestions. I cleaned the gas lines, replaced the rubber gas hoses, cleaned out the tank, replaced the tank filter, cleaned the fuel pump, add a fuel filter, tuned it up, adjusted the valves, changed the oil and put some fuel in the carb and cranked it and it started. I'm going to change the oil as was suggested after a couple of hours. It's off to the brakes now.