I still have my very first car, bought 31 years ago for $425. A Sea Sand Tan ’66. The car has been garaged for past 20 years or so and has not been started. I am looking for advice on what needs to be done before attempting to start. The engine turns over smoothly by hand (wrench) cranking.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced all tires
2. Took plugs out and shot a little penetrating oil into each cylinder.
3. Will replace plugs.
4. Drained oil and cleaned screen. Some oil was “gunky”
5. Will replace oil screen gaskets and oil.
Should I do any of these things or additional things before trying to start?
1. Replace fuel line
2. Take value cover off and clean valves. If so, clean with what?
3. Clean fuel pump and / or carb? If so, how?
4. Should I do anything with fuel tank? It is bone dry.
Thanks for any advice.
Has not started for 20+ years.
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Dtown66bug
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jmartini
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If gas sat in the carbs or tank for 30 years you will probably have gummed up carbs and rust/varnish in yur tank. I would pull the carb for sure and clean it. I would adjust the valves before I tried starting it. Not sure how to handle the tank issue. First get a flash light and see if you can see the bottom of the tank and what condition it is in. If it's rusty I'm not sure the fuel filter (Make sure to replace that as well) will catch all that stuff so you will just end up garbaging up the carbs again. Someone else here may have a tank remedy for you.
Make sure you get John Muir's compleate idiot book - it will take you step by step through many of the mechanical procedures to get your baby running again.
Make sure you get John Muir's compleate idiot book - it will take you step by step through many of the mechanical procedures to get your baby running again.
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Blue Baron
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- Location: Tampa, Florida
This topic is freaky-deeky because I could have written it. I'm also about to start a seasand beige '66 (with sunroof!) that has sat for 16 years.
I changed the oil, plugs, points, fuel line (front and rear), fuel filter and fanbelt, and static timed the engine. I also looked inside the carb (clean as a whistle) and checked the fuel pump diaphram. I also noticed the choke element was 12 volt, so I changed it back to 6 volt.
I adjusted the valves and put in new valve cover gaskets, and hopefully it's good to crank up. My tank was also bone dry, with no visible signs of any varnish residue.
The most gunk I found anywhere was on the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir, which I replaced along with master and wheel cylinders.
Other mechanical additions include new Optima 6-volt battery , new ground strap and five new tires
I changed the oil, plugs, points, fuel line (front and rear), fuel filter and fanbelt, and static timed the engine. I also looked inside the carb (clean as a whistle) and checked the fuel pump diaphram. I also noticed the choke element was 12 volt, so I changed it back to 6 volt.
I adjusted the valves and put in new valve cover gaskets, and hopefully it's good to crank up. My tank was also bone dry, with no visible signs of any varnish residue.
The most gunk I found anywhere was on the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir, which I replaced along with master and wheel cylinders.
Other mechanical additions include new Optima 6-volt battery , new ground strap and five new tires