Seized front wheel

Digger89L · Post by **Digger89L** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 11:15 pm

When I picked up my 66 parts car, the front passenger wheel was seized up. Tried tapping on the brake drum with a hammer, hoping to free up the brake pads if they were rusted up. No luck. Ended up putting a metal plate under that wheel and skidding it onto and off of the trailer. Now, I need to free that wheel up so I can move the car around the shop. Any 'non-distructive' suggestions?

darzoom · Post by **darzoom** » Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:32 am

Non-destructive is the challenge. If it is rusted to the point it is seized, there may already be issues with parts destroyed beyond use. To find out, first you will need to back the brake shoes all the way by turning the adjuster. You may need to spray some rust buster on the adjuster through the adjusting hole before you start turning the adjuster. While there, spray brake cleaner into the gap of the backing plate and drum. That may help it loosen a shoe that may be stuck to the drum. Once the brakes are backed, put the car back on the ground and try rocking the car to see if it was the brakes and they let loose. If that does not allow it to release, remove the dust cap and inspect the bearings to see that they are not rusted. If they are again spray with rust buster. Leave the tire/wheel on and try rocking the car again. FYI, it is usually the brakes have been over tightened. Good luck!

Digger89L · Post by **Digger89L** » Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:25 am

Thanks for chiming in ... I ran into the (usual?) three-day wall of silence here, so I moved the discussion over TheSamba, and got similar advice. Only problem is, as luck would have it, the wheel didn't seize with the adjuster access hole over the adjuster! So, its not an option to back-off the adjuster. One reasonable suggestion was to poke a long punch in thru either the access hole, or a wheel bolt hole, and give the offending shoe a sharp hit to try to dislodge it. I'm going to give that a try later today.

darzoom · Post by **darzoom** » Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:27 am

Crap, I had changed my backing plates for later models so I could adjust from back and front. I forgot that there is only the drum hole for those who dont have the slotted backing plate. Maybe you can drill a hole in the backing plate to get to it and then use a punch. That is what I use when it is stuck so I can strike with a hammer. Good luck!

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Tue Oct 07, 2014 1:36 pm

Sorry about the three day delay ...

Spray the whole damn thing down with penetrating oil and let it soak, then pound all around the drum with a BFH (big hammer). Most likely the brake lining is stuck to the drum. You can use a pry bar between two wheel lugs to get leverage to try and force it to turn.

The adjuster stars are likely siezed, but you can still try to loosen them once the holes are aligned. Your last resort is a wheel puller.

Frankly, if the car has been sitting long enough for the brakes to seize, you're going to need to replace the shoes and wheel cylinders anyway, so I wouldn't sweat the destruction.

Digger89L · Post by **Digger89L** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 8:03 pm

Well ....still no luck on freeing up that wheel. I sprayed more than half a can of anti-rust oil into the wheel ....banged on the brake shoes with a hammer and punch thru the wheel lug holes ....put my earplugs in, and drummed on the brake drum with a heavy hammer for quite some time ...put some long bolts in two of the lug holes and leveraged the heck out of the wheel with a long bar ... hasn't budged a centimeter ...yet. I'm letting it marinate in anti-rust oil while I contempate my next plan of attack. Any more advice, anyone??

h~moto · Post by **h~moto** » Sun Nov 02, 2014 4:03 pm

Assuming that you don't own one, maybe rent a large puller from a rental company.

Digger89L · Post by **Digger89L** » Sun Nov 02, 2014 4:33 pm

That's an idea. I'm not near my shop right now: what's the diameter of the brake drum? ..so I know what size gear puller I need to rent.

Itskyle · Post by **Itskyle** » Sun Nov 02, 2014 9:58 pm

Did you try the careful application of heat vis a vis some sort of small torch?

Just be careful, you don't need me to tell you about the proximity of the gas tank could prove to be a safety concern.

Good luck, and let us know how it works out.

Kyle

Digger89L · Post by **Digger89L** » Sun Nov 02, 2014 10:11 pm

The only torch I have available is one of those small Bernz-o-matic propane torches. Not sure if that would generate enough heat, long enough to make a difference.

The gas tank is bone dry, but I'd be more worried about setting fire to all that penetrating oil that has soaked into the brake pads (which likely didn't help make the drum any looser!)

I'll give it a try, with a fire extinguisher close at hand.

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:11 pm

I would not use heat on a brake drum unless you plan to replace it. The cast iron can warp.

A wheel puller is looking more like your only option.

The 1966 VW Beetle Forum

Seized front wheel

Seized front wheel

I know, know its dangerous, but