Not Getting Gas After Driving?
Not Getting Gas After Driving?
Hi, My father recently purchased a 1966 VW Beetle 1300 Engine. We've taken it to get it inspected and had the mechanic do a tune up on it. The Mechanic Replaced the in line fuel filter and replaced a damaged flange under the fuel pump. The car runs well for about 30 minutes then shuts off and refuses to start up again until cools off. What can I do to make it run continuously? it seems as if it doesn't get any gas when its warmed up. Any Ideas?
The inital problem sounds like vapor lock but as it runs for thrity minutes it makes me think there is a fuel supply problem. Did the problem exist before the mechanic did the work? Either way, the following might correct the problem and is standard maintenance on a bug fuel system anyway.
The fuel system has 2 filters from the factory (the inline was added at some point in its long life and is fine). Both are filter screens with the first th the bottom of the tank.
To check the tank filter you need to jack the front up, drain the fuel by dissconnecting the in-line filter and lower the line below the tank drain level. Once drained, remove one of the fron tires and see the big nut on the bottom of the tank. You can reach in and take thefuel line off and remove the nut to check the in-line screen and replace. I suggerst your replace it either way as they are aboyt $15 depending on where you source the part.
You can also just take the 4 bolts out holding the tank and remove as there should be little or no fuel and it is light to remove. If you dont want to drain the tank, you can always just pinch the line at the bottom of the tank with a pair of vise grips and disconnect from the hard line and remove the tank. Your choice.
The other filter is in the fuel pump and depending on which type of pump, it will be under the dome on the top or behind the big brass plug on the belt side of the pump. (see pictures) If a dome, there is a singel screw on the top, remove the screw and lift off the dome and check the screen for trash. If the barass bolt, remove and extract the filter and clean as needed.
Keep us posted on your progress.
The fuel system has 2 filters from the factory (the inline was added at some point in its long life and is fine). Both are filter screens with the first th the bottom of the tank.
To check the tank filter you need to jack the front up, drain the fuel by dissconnecting the in-line filter and lower the line below the tank drain level. Once drained, remove one of the fron tires and see the big nut on the bottom of the tank. You can reach in and take thefuel line off and remove the nut to check the in-line screen and replace. I suggerst your replace it either way as they are aboyt $15 depending on where you source the part.
You can also just take the 4 bolts out holding the tank and remove as there should be little or no fuel and it is light to remove. If you dont want to drain the tank, you can always just pinch the line at the bottom of the tank with a pair of vise grips and disconnect from the hard line and remove the tank. Your choice.
The other filter is in the fuel pump and depending on which type of pump, it will be under the dome on the top or behind the big brass plug on the belt side of the pump. (see pictures) If a dome, there is a singel screw on the top, remove the screw and lift off the dome and check the screen for trash. If the barass bolt, remove and extract the filter and clean as needed.
Keep us posted on your progress.
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You should be able to let the car run at a fast idle for the time you said it takes to stop running and see if the in-line filter has fuel or not. If it does not, there is a clog somewhere in the line or the pump does not have enough pressure to keep the car running.
To check the fuel pump pressure do the following:
1. With the engine OFF, connect a "tee" fitting in the fuel hose between the fuel pump and the carburetor.
2. Connect a fuel pump pressure tester to the "tee" fitting. Be sure the hose to the gauge is routed away from the drivebelt.
3. Set the parking brake and block the wheels.
4. Start the engine with the transmission in neutral, and allow it to warm up.
5. Run the engine briefly at 3400 rpm (this is approximately highway cruising speed)
6. Note the pressure reading; spec. is 2.8 psi at 3400 rpm.
7. Remove the test equipment and reconnect the fuel line, using a hose clamp at the fuel line/carburetor connection.
8. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
Most auto parts stores (Advance Auto Parts for sure) will “lend or rent” a gauge as needed for testing.
The final thing I can think to check is the fuel line. In that the car is near 50 years old, it may be the fuel line is bad and is collapsing as the pump pulls it down and makes it collapse.
I would suggest buying all new fuel line and replacing it including the short piece from the tank to the hard line. You will need about 4 feet. Do not use rubber fuel line as it will collapse. It needs to be the braided type line as what came with the car.
If you are replacing the line, you might want to clean the hard line to make sure there is not crap that has settled in it over the years. You can spray carb cleaner in the front by the tank and blow air through the line. Do not exceed about 15-20 pounds as the line could fracture as it is not designed for any pressure above 20ibs. You could also run a piece of stiff wire or old throttle cable (with end cut off) through it if you feel it has a clog. Just make sure you use carb cleaner as well as the cleaner will help break anything loose that may be in the line.
Again, have fun and keep us posted on your progress.
To check the fuel pump pressure do the following:
1. With the engine OFF, connect a "tee" fitting in the fuel hose between the fuel pump and the carburetor.
2. Connect a fuel pump pressure tester to the "tee" fitting. Be sure the hose to the gauge is routed away from the drivebelt.
3. Set the parking brake and block the wheels.
4. Start the engine with the transmission in neutral, and allow it to warm up.
5. Run the engine briefly at 3400 rpm (this is approximately highway cruising speed)
6. Note the pressure reading; spec. is 2.8 psi at 3400 rpm.
7. Remove the test equipment and reconnect the fuel line, using a hose clamp at the fuel line/carburetor connection.
8. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
Most auto parts stores (Advance Auto Parts for sure) will “lend or rent” a gauge as needed for testing.
The final thing I can think to check is the fuel line. In that the car is near 50 years old, it may be the fuel line is bad and is collapsing as the pump pulls it down and makes it collapse.
I would suggest buying all new fuel line and replacing it including the short piece from the tank to the hard line. You will need about 4 feet. Do not use rubber fuel line as it will collapse. It needs to be the braided type line as what came with the car.
If you are replacing the line, you might want to clean the hard line to make sure there is not crap that has settled in it over the years. You can spray carb cleaner in the front by the tank and blow air through the line. Do not exceed about 15-20 pounds as the line could fracture as it is not designed for any pressure above 20ibs. You could also run a piece of stiff wire or old throttle cable (with end cut off) through it if you feel it has a clog. Just make sure you use carb cleaner as well as the cleaner will help break anything loose that may be in the line.
Again, have fun and keep us posted on your progress.
Darzoom asks a good question - did the problem exist before the mechanic did the work? Is the mechanic knowlegable with vintage VW's? If the fuel pump flange is replaced, then the amount of pump stroke needs to be checked and adjusted if necessary. It is adjusted by the number of gaskets installed on the flange. At it's highest point, the top of the rod should be about 1/2" above the flange.
A word of warning: keep push rod out of the way whenever the flange is not in position. If the flange is not installed, the rod can be dropped inside the crankcase - not a good situation.
Rounded end of rod is installed down.
If you don't own one, you may want to invest in a repair manual. There are lots of good ones out there.
A word of warning: keep push rod out of the way whenever the flange is not in position. If the flange is not installed, the rod can be dropped inside the crankcase - not a good situation.
Rounded end of rod is installed down.
If you don't own one, you may want to invest in a repair manual. There are lots of good ones out there.
Not Getting Gas After Driving?
Hi.
As you do all the above tests, you might want to also check your heat raiser pipes for blockage due to carbon. This in turn will cause your carburettor to develop a blockage due to ice that forms as a result of the high pressure suction through the carburettor venturis.
You will have to get the manifold (pipe on which the carburettor sits) out and blow through the smaller pipes. If no air goes through, it means there is no heat from the exhausts going through the smaller pipes which is suppose to warm up the bottom of the carburettor to prevent the ice from forming.
A reason i would have this suspicion just from what you say is that the car will start after it cools for some time.
It might not be it, but still adviceable to confirm that your heat raisers are clear just to avoid a similar problem resulting from this.
All the best.
As you do all the above tests, you might want to also check your heat raiser pipes for blockage due to carbon. This in turn will cause your carburettor to develop a blockage due to ice that forms as a result of the high pressure suction through the carburettor venturis.
You will have to get the manifold (pipe on which the carburettor sits) out and blow through the smaller pipes. If no air goes through, it means there is no heat from the exhausts going through the smaller pipes which is suppose to warm up the bottom of the carburettor to prevent the ice from forming.
A reason i would have this suspicion just from what you say is that the car will start after it cools for some time.
It might not be it, but still adviceable to confirm that your heat raisers are clear just to avoid a similar problem resulting from this.
All the best.
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Blue Baron
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