Hi.
Kindly advice me on rebuild matters.
I tore up my engine (minus splitting the block) to repair the heads that got studs stripped off as a result of an accident.
The rest of the engine seems ok. Kindly advice- can I just refit everything back using the exact componenets (pyston rings and bearings) owing to the fact that the engine was running perfect?
Is it adviceable say to split the block to retorque (would also want to be sure about the inside....though there is no end-play).
How can I remove the pulley if I dont have a puller? Does tapping all round work?
Kindly advice.
Thank you.
Engine Rebuild - SOS
“can I just refit everything back using the exact components (piston rings and bearings) owing to the fact that the engine was running perfect?”
Bottom line, Check Ring gap. To do so, place your rings one-at-a-time in the bottom third of the cylinder to which those rings belong, use an old piston to square them up, your wear limits are .035" your usual clearances are around .016 to .022. If exceeded you should consider replacing the rings. If you have the means, you might want to mike your cylinders to see that they are okay and round.
There are no bearings that can be replaced if you just pulled off the heads and cylinders. The only ones that are accessible are the piston pin bearings in the rods and they are usually replaces when rods are rebuilt.
“Is it advisable say to split the block to torque (would also want to be sure about the inside....though there is no end-play).”
The case does not have to be split to set end play. You need a dial indicator and a mount for the flywheel end of the crank. With the flywheel attached, mount the dial indicator and push pull the crank to find the end play. The end play should be .003" - .005" with a wear limit of .006". If you have to remove the flywheel you will need a lock to hold it in place and something capable of getting around 250 ft lbs of torque to tighten the gland nut back on the engine. If you do remove the flywheel, please replace the seat as the seal is the first place that oil leaks start on a VW.
“How can I remove the pulley if I don’t have a puller? Does tapping all round work? “
A puller is not needed to remove the belt pulley. Just remove the bolt and washer, then put the bolt back on. Use to large screwdrivers or pry bars 180 degrees opposite each other and pull away from the crank. Tap on the bolt with a hammer if needed to make it start moving.
Good luck!
Bottom line, Check Ring gap. To do so, place your rings one-at-a-time in the bottom third of the cylinder to which those rings belong, use an old piston to square them up, your wear limits are .035" your usual clearances are around .016 to .022. If exceeded you should consider replacing the rings. If you have the means, you might want to mike your cylinders to see that they are okay and round.
There are no bearings that can be replaced if you just pulled off the heads and cylinders. The only ones that are accessible are the piston pin bearings in the rods and they are usually replaces when rods are rebuilt.
“Is it advisable say to split the block to torque (would also want to be sure about the inside....though there is no end-play).”
The case does not have to be split to set end play. You need a dial indicator and a mount for the flywheel end of the crank. With the flywheel attached, mount the dial indicator and push pull the crank to find the end play. The end play should be .003" - .005" with a wear limit of .006". If you have to remove the flywheel you will need a lock to hold it in place and something capable of getting around 250 ft lbs of torque to tighten the gland nut back on the engine. If you do remove the flywheel, please replace the seat as the seal is the first place that oil leaks start on a VW.
“How can I remove the pulley if I don’t have a puller? Does tapping all round work? “
A puller is not needed to remove the belt pulley. Just remove the bolt and washer, then put the bolt back on. Use to large screwdrivers or pry bars 180 degrees opposite each other and pull away from the crank. Tap on the bolt with a hammer if needed to make it start moving.
Good luck!
Engine Rebuild - SOS
Hi Darzoom
Thank you for your valuable response. I appreciate the detail and will make use of it.
Just to mention, I split the block. All is fine...other than a small thing the previous rebuilder had done....using a cut screw for a dowel pin.
One challenge I have....hoping it wont distort performance, I did not mark cylinder to piston.... Now I know what to do next time....
Thanks though.
Thank you for your valuable response. I appreciate the detail and will make use of it.
Just to mention, I split the block. All is fine...other than a small thing the previous rebuilder had done....using a cut screw for a dowel pin.
One challenge I have....hoping it wont distort performance, I did not mark cylinder to piston.... Now I know what to do next time....
Thanks though.
Engine Rebuild - SOS
Hi.
Goood news. The rebuild was a toatal success. I split the block, cleaned up everything and re-assembled. The bearings were all within good life.
Glad to mention a minor leak I had was dealt with...and just proud of myself for having done the job with an engine back and running smooth and a half-kick start.
Goood news. The rebuild was a toatal success. I split the block, cleaned up everything and re-assembled. The bearings were all within good life.
Glad to mention a minor leak I had was dealt with...and just proud of myself for having done the job with an engine back and running smooth and a half-kick start.
-
hercdriver
- Senior Member
- Posts: 154
- Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2012 7:55 am
- Location: Beaver, PA
Engine Rebuild - SOS
hi.
Kindly advice further- is there a mechanical danger in driving the car off without the muffler attached?
I had to get my muffler reffabricated about afew hundred meteres from my home and was thinking I could drive down (though noisy) for the refit. Kindly advice.
Kindly advice further- is there a mechanical danger in driving the car off without the muffler attached?
I had to get my muffler reffabricated about afew hundred meteres from my home and was thinking I could drive down (though noisy) for the refit. Kindly advice.
This will spark a lot of comment, but no there is no problem other than the noise for the short drive. Know that the exhaust blowing out of the back cylinders/heat exchangers may burn the paint on the back of the car or if there is any oil on the surrounding engine compartment/rear apron area the exhaust will heat it. Then the engine may throw sparks/fire and you might have a nice auto flambé on the drive to the muffler shop. There is always the back pressure question but it is a few hundred meters (not kilometers).
Such a short distance and a light muffler begs the question, why not walk down a bring it back to install and save the possibility of something happening? To be honest, that is what I would do.
Such a short distance and a light muffler begs the question, why not walk down a bring it back to install and save the possibility of something happening? To be honest, that is what I would do.
Engine Rebuild - SOS
hi Darzoom
Thank you for your valuable feedback.
Not being too lazy to walk or too excited that I just want to drive down with all pending risks at hand, thing is, part of the refabrication fits need the actual measurements of the exhaust & heat raiser pipes in position.....what other better way other than to have the engine present as the engineer wouldn't do the trip to my place.
I will see what to do mate....I don't mind loading my engine onto a truck to have what is needed done..... good thing, it is already dropped...and as I said, it is just a few hundred meters.
Thanks.
Thank you for your valuable feedback.
Not being too lazy to walk or too excited that I just want to drive down with all pending risks at hand, thing is, part of the refabrication fits need the actual measurements of the exhaust & heat raiser pipes in position.....what other better way other than to have the engine present as the engineer wouldn't do the trip to my place.
I will see what to do mate....I don't mind loading my engine onto a truck to have what is needed done..... good thing, it is already dropped...and as I said, it is just a few hundred meters.
Thanks.
Engine Rebuild - SOS
Hi Darzoom.
I might just consider that option. Thanks.
I might just consider that option. Thanks.