1966 Beetle from Malaysia
- rokemester
- Senior Member
- Posts: 274
- Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2009 9:46 pm
- Location: Cleveland, Ohio
- rokemester
- Senior Member
- Posts: 274
- Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2009 9:46 pm
- Location: Cleveland, Ohio
been a while
oh yea i joined exhuast crowd!! LOL....fitted this to my stocker....cant stand those tiny pea shooters, plus hard to get german ones that lasts , ones i can find are usually rusted before i fit them
still not sure if to put some fancy chrome tip through the original cut out or just some rusty pipe
oh yea i joined exhuast crowd!! LOL....fitted this to my stocker....cant stand those tiny pea shooters, plus hard to get german ones that lasts , ones i can find are usually rusted before i fit them
still not sure if to put some fancy chrome tip through the original cut out or just some rusty pipe
can see some previous poor repairs
i need to sort the seat out...or else those springs might poke my fat ass
still original 66 only cover - Platinum Grey, sadly i could not find a piece of the carpet left when i got the car, only the piece behind the rear seat
wasnt too happy with my shifting, also neve check since i got the car....
damn, looked oily, some joker sprayed the bushes with oil or coated themwith grease!!! big NO NO
bushes looked OK, but have to change.
picked this old bush inthe tunner with 2 long screwdrivers....somebod dint bother to remove them
removed the shifter.....bush missing as expected, but i am lucky as the hanger for the ush inside is still good...no need to remove and weld new hanger!!
cant get any pic, too dark there
removed the front apron cover
and also fame head plate.....torn seal.....dunno if they sell, but luckily this part is easy to make!!!
cleaned out the grease filled couplers....still good, but wet
compare the old and my new CB Performance coupler....i had some OEM German couplers lying somewhere, dunno where i put though
old tray cut out
ugly repair...
new piece welded in
today inside welded and grounded smooth
bottom part still needs work, grinding and smoothening out
not too happy with how below looks like, but can tell properly when they have been cleaned and smoothened
i really wanted to ask the welder to smoothen and fill it using lead, but i figure it will take a lot of time....
cant get any pic, too dark there
removed the front apron cover
and also fame head plate.....torn seal.....dunno if they sell, but luckily this part is easy to make!!!
cleaned out the grease filled couplers....still good, but wet
compare the old and my new CB Performance coupler....i had some OEM German couplers lying somewhere, dunno where i put though
old tray cut out
ugly repair...
new piece welded in
today inside welded and grounded smooth
bottom part still needs work, grinding and smoothening out
not too happy with how below looks like, but can tell properly when they have been cleaned and smoothened
i really wanted to ask the welder to smoothen and fill it using lead, but i figure it will take a lot of time....
other side cut out as well
chose to patch the floors instead of replacing as i wanted to keep the original floors...
the other reason is i wana drive this car around till my 70 is out, dun wana be without a car for so long
the other side welded
i used a copper wire to grind down the rest of the floors, so that i can clean, buff out surface rusts if any and check everything before i use metal prep, zinc primer and a final coat of hammerite black.
too tired after half way...night time somemore
found 2 other small patches ...and 1 very small hole...should be easy to cover up
chose to patch the floors instead of replacing as i wanted to keep the original floors...
the other reason is i wana drive this car around till my 70 is out, dun wana be without a car for so long
the other side welded
i used a copper wire to grind down the rest of the floors, so that i can clean, buff out surface rusts if any and check everything before i use metal prep, zinc primer and a final coat of hammerite black.
too tired after half way...night time somemore
found 2 other small patches ...and 1 very small hole...should be easy to cover up
shifter bushing and coupling replaced...no pics on the bushing though as i was not around.
took this chance to spray some waxoyl into the chasis
found some body cracks today, this will need to be attended to.
dint do much today, just removed some old fender bolts and renew with stainless items. most of these are a little rusty, i figure this make removal easier in the future. removed old, sprayed with WD40, new bolts with lots of grease.
bumper bolts have been changed at one point with the wrong bolts and they no longer take the normal M13 bolts....so have to get this fixed as well.
some of the old bolts that I took out. i was lucky mine are actually quite good, i have removed some that are so rusty that i cant get them out and also snapped the hex head off.
took this chance to spray some waxoyl into the chasis
found some body cracks today, this will need to be attended to.
dint do much today, just removed some old fender bolts and renew with stainless items. most of these are a little rusty, i figure this make removal easier in the future. removed old, sprayed with WD40, new bolts with lots of grease.
bumper bolts have been changed at one point with the wrong bolts and they no longer take the normal M13 bolts....so have to get this fixed as well.
some of the old bolts that I took out. i was lucky mine are actually quite good, i have removed some that are so rusty that i cant get them out and also snapped the hex head off.
the other day found a hole here abour 2mm in diameter, hehehe, so i rubbed the area and found some light pits....so this part was cut out and patched back.
underneath still needs to touch up, and most importantly ground smooth before primer and hammerite black
also did this
oooo....so rusty...
see the heater channels inside this pic, this is surprisingly solid.....replacement sills do not have this....not that we need it anyway...LOL
bolt for the running board
i cleaned the inside of this piece b4 welding, cleaned all surface rusts, coated with zinc rich primer, no pics coz i left for a drink...LOL
cleaned up all surface rusts as i could
ran out of my Hammerite Stop Rust, so used this instead
underneath still needs to touch up, and most importantly ground smooth before primer and hammerite black
also did this
oooo....so rusty...
see the heater channels inside this pic, this is surprisingly solid.....replacement sills do not have this....not that we need it anyway...LOL
bolt for the running board
i cleaned the inside of this piece b4 welding, cleaned all surface rusts, coated with zinc rich primer, no pics coz i left for a drink...LOL
cleaned up all surface rusts as i could
ran out of my Hammerite Stop Rust, so used this instead
fitted these today
i strongly recommend changing these bolts, most commonly overlooked and forgotten.
just look at my old bolts and the new one. check the pitted section. if i have left it any longer or in some rusty cars, the bolt could have snapped or rusted in the centre.
new bolts and SS washers
this is what I am talking about
couldnt stand those tar boards, always preffered clean look, although will be noisier....mine are original tar baords, all hardened up and look ugly
before
after
look at the mess they did to my wiring. luckily nothing major and all are reversible
thats what left
since i am around, took the car to the mechanic and changed the spring plate bushings and installed my Berg shifter.
Upon close inspection, my car still has the original German spring plate bushes, it looked OK, but slightly deformed over the years, and no way i am putting them back.
The PU ones i bought i was told weren't for the correct year.
beam removed
checked my frame head for corrosion, looked good, cleaned up real good, no welding or rusts, painted with hammerite
my beam and beam on loan
old breaking apart coupler, changed new
old bushes, changed new, old broken
this is how it looked
rear still a bit high after bushes changed, need to readjust
i dont like the front, too high!!!
i strongly recommend changing these bolts, most commonly overlooked and forgotten.
just look at my old bolts and the new one. check the pitted section. if i have left it any longer or in some rusty cars, the bolt could have snapped or rusted in the centre.
new bolts and SS washers
this is what I am talking about
couldnt stand those tar boards, always preffered clean look, although will be noisier....mine are original tar baords, all hardened up and look ugly
before
after
look at the mess they did to my wiring. luckily nothing major and all are reversible
thats what left
since i am around, took the car to the mechanic and changed the spring plate bushings and installed my Berg shifter.
Upon close inspection, my car still has the original German spring plate bushes, it looked OK, but slightly deformed over the years, and no way i am putting them back.
The PU ones i bought i was told weren't for the correct year.
beam removed
checked my frame head for corrosion, looked good, cleaned up real good, no welding or rusts, painted with hammerite
my beam and beam on loan
old breaking apart coupler, changed new
old bushes, changed new, old broken
this is how it looked
rear still a bit high after bushes changed, need to readjust
i dont like the front, too high!!!
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 104
- Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:54 pm
- Location: DALLASTOWN, PA